A Return to Oil Painting

June 17, 2009

painting inventory – 2009

jaw bone and magnolia flower framed and hanging by Matthew Stiles 2009

magnolia and jaw bone - framed and hanging by Matthew Stiles 2009

First off here is a slightly better photograph of the last painting, framed and hanging. (click it to enlarge.) It’s at an odd angle because I had to rest against a door to avoid my hand tremor blurring the image. I cannot seem to find my tripod at the moment. And yes, my walls are lime green… I hate renting and not being allowed to paint the walls.

paint and supplies I no longer use

paint and supplies I no longer use

This entire shoe box is all paints and supplies I no longer or very seldom use.

An older tube wringer, in fine shape but stained from a cadmium Orange tube that had the side rip. I used the wringer to save the paint into a glass jar but it made a huge mess of the wringer. I don’t really need two of these and seeing that I just found another (exactly the same) one I’ll use the new shiny one instead.

Dorlands Wax Medium, works fine but I’ve made my own out of only bees wax and turpentine. I feel the one I made handles better, and I like that it’s fewer ingredients.

A quart of Burnt Plate oil. Used a very small amount once in a medium. Just not my thing so off it goes. Stand oil is much better, safer, and smells less.

The rest of it is all paints that I don’t really use. I’m thinking of throwing them as well as the other things up as a lot on ebay just so I have more space. If anyone is interested in any of that stuff I’d be glad to sell it to you.

Next up are the paint tubes I actually use. There not all currently my preference but they work well enough. In order of appearance:

my current lineup of used paints

my current lineup of used paints

  • Old Holland Cremnitz White. It’s way to pasty and thick. I’ll be replacing it with either Williamsburg Flake White or (more likely) Micheal Harding Cremnitz White.
  • Weber Permalba White. Someone at Weber should really realize these are the most annoying tubes possible for oil paint. They let air into the tube if you’re not careful! It’s a mix of zinc and titanium and I no longer wish to use premixed paints either. I”ll be replacing it with a straight titanium white, likely Williamsburg titanium white.
  • Williamsburg Cadmium Red Medium, got this one on sale at the factory because the tube was damaged and it had no label. Nice color, expensive but worth it.
  • Grumbacher Cadmium-Barium Yellow Light. It’s cut with Barium but it’s actually a very good paint for the price and still tints very strongly. I also like the tint more than other cadmium yellows.
  • Winton Yellow Ochre. I want to replace this with Williamsburg Mars Yellow Light.
  • Grumbacher Viridian, I actually found this tube in a box of paints after college. I’m not set on a viridian brand yet so I’m just filling my very seldom used green in with this one for now. I’d like to try Gamblins viridian next.
  • Old Holland Ultramarine Blue, nice color and consistency. I wish the lead white was closer to this one.
  • Williamsburg Raw Umber, I need a  bigger tube of this.
  • Winton Ivory Black. I (very oddly) like this cheap-o black. I suppose it’s mostly because it’s such a weak tint that I can easily control it.

I’ll eventually get some Williamsburgs German Earth, a very neutral black. It may kick the Winton Ivory Black to the curb or they may coexist, not sure yet as one is dirt and the other burnt bones.

I’d also like to get Sennelier Cerulean Blue but at over $100 USD a tube it’s not happening very soon.

stuff I don't use very often but need. Mostly framing and cleaning and medium making stuff

stuff I don't use very often but need. Mostly framing and cleaning and medium making stuff

Next up is stuff I don’t use too often. Materials for framing, priming, cleaning, varnishing, and making supports. Hammer, tape measure, sand paper, Mineral spirits, stapler, staples, framing points, point driver, framing wire, eyelets, d-rings, alkyd primer,damar varnish, cheese cloth, damar crystals, bees wax, marble dust, rabbit skin glue, old tube lids, a plastic bowl, dry shellac flakes, and finally some brad nails. It all goes in a box in my closet most days.

my daylight CFL snake lamp, french easel and pochade

my daylight CFL snake lamp, french easel and pochade

Next my workhorses. My french easel is now broken, the wood cracked during the winter so I’m not really sure I’m going to be able to use it anymore.

The light is my handy snake light with daylight CFL. My father gave it to me after cleaning out a dormitory a few years back. I’m thinking of putting a lower wattage bulb into it. No hurry though since these CFLs last upwards of five years!

The pochade it very nice. Got it on sale on-line since they don’t sell them around here. It needs a tripod mount added and it’ll be perfect. sometime this year that should happen, money permitting.

mediums that I use to paint

mediums that I use to paint

Next, I have the mediums I actually use. Homemade damar retouch, homemade wax medium, Kama Canada balsam, Pure Essential Oil clove oil, Gamblin linseed oil,Gamblin stand oil, homemade medium (turpentine, linseed, and Canada balsam), Kama cobalt zirconium drier (which I’ve yet to use but keep on hand). Not pictured is my Winsor & Newton Distilled Turpentine because I keep it in the box and out of the light.

paint brushes and knives, also a pair of scissors

paint brushes and knives, also a pair of scissors

Finally my brushes and knives in there handy bucket. I need/want new painting knives but haven’t bothered as I seldom use them. My brushes are all Trekell hog or red sable. I want more filberts in the future as the shape is growing on me. I also want left handed scissors, it’s stupid they always charge so much more for them.

February 25, 2009

how oil paints are made

Filed under: materials, painting — Tags: , , , , , — Matthew @ 12:47 pm

First the tubes used to store most all oil paints today

 

Next up the oil paints themselves (Winsor and Newton brand)

part 1 (Starts at 5:39) 

 

part 2 

February 11, 2009

small setback

Filed under: materials, painting — Tags: , , , , — Matthew @ 1:14 pm

My canvas panel warped and bowed quite badly, I’m going to attempt to correct it. I think I didn’t wait long enough to glue the salvage canvas onto the back of the board. As such, the canvas front shrank and pulled the corners up.

So, I”ll unglue the back, attempt to strengthen it by adding another coat of rabbit skin glue and then let that dry before attempting to redo the entire board..

February 4, 2009

RSG aka rabbit skin glue

Filed under: materials — Tags: , , , , — Matthew @ 2:32 pm

rabbit skin glue (RSG) - warming in a tap water bathI’ve gotten around to making up another batch of rabbit skin glue. I decided to attempt a double batch last night so that I could seal off the remainder of my panels and perhaps have enough to make a few canvas covered panels. That would mean a suggest starting point of 2Tbs RSG to 22Tbs H2O. As the last batch I made was a bit too thin at the first attempt I went with a 1:10 ration rather than 1:11.

Well, after letting it sit for about six hours (the bare minimum) and applying a fracture/cleavage test the glue was MUCH too strong. so I diluted to about 1:12. Another six hours and it’s still just as strong… So I went ahead and upped it to nearly a quart of water now it’s now resting away in a nice warm tap water bath. If it’s still to strong I’ll up to the full quart of water and after that I’m out of space in my bowl!

and FYI, rabbit skin glue is actually a common name for a very high grade hide glue. It’s normally made from cow hides, not rabbits. Although rabbits do from what I’ve been told make a very nice glue. Not to mention they taste quite nice in a stew. It’s quite similar in looks to plain jello, (collagen is what makes up jello and RSG!)

July 23, 2008

Clove Oil Test Results

Filed under: materials — Tags: , , , , , , , — Matthew @ 11:57 am

Clove Oil Test Results for Oil Painting Suitability - 1

Results from the clove oil tests are in. The clove oil is 100% suitable for oil painting. The left most is just the paint (Windsor and Newton’s Winton Burnt Umber). The next column is just some clove oil, the next is a mix of clove oil and paint. And finally is the clove oil placed onto the paint but unmixed.

The larger piles with clove oil both mixed into the paint and placed over the paint are still very moist and have no skin formation. The paint without the clove oil mixture is now thickly skinned over.

Clove Oil Test Results

Clove Oil Test Results

The thinned sections all dried at various rates, the clove oil portions lagging by a day for the thinnest, and two days for the medium thickness.

The support discoloration is from some amber shellac I was using for a wood working project. The shellac lowered the absorbency of the paper so I would get less oil leaching from the paint. The blotches of clove oil around the paints were because of my over application of the clove oil.

I started setting up my next still life lastnight. I went to a local junk shop and found a lovely old tarnished silver sugar bowl that I’m hoping to incorporate into the next pice. I’m still unsure if I like the arrangment at this moment however so it may change.

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