transfer to wordpress and editing of migrated posts

After using blogger for awhile I realized it was limiting me in ways that I did not like. Mainly it was a major pain to log into, and often bugged up, as a dial-up user I just couldn’t handle it any longer.  As such I’ve transfered to wordpress.

Upon finishing the transfer I realized that I needed to be more diligent in updating my blog, and in editing my posts into more manageable sections for simpler reading and navigation. As such the posts that have been migrated over from blogger will be edited or deleted as I find the time and need. I have already begun this process by altering the “primer on primers” into sections and adding a new one on alkyd primers.

For the time being I have also removed the garlic series and will be resubmitting them with their own posts and higher quality images within the coming weeks.

I look forward to writing and feel a renewed commitment to the task.

primer on primers part 4: alkyd

Pros

• similar tactile feel to oil primer

• relatively fast dried
• flexible, but not overly so

Cons

• clean up
• sizing
• possible adhesion issues

I don’t really like alkyd primer as much as I was hoping when I purchased it. I was hoping for a great compromise between my previous usage of acrylic primers and my new love of oil primers, however alkyds don’t quite fit the bill.The application process is the same as for an oil primer so no advantages are achieved on this end of the spectrum. Clean up is also the same, I truthfully found the alkyds a bit harder to clean from the brushes as well.

The feel once prepared is similar to an oil primer although somewhat more absorbent. This is what killed it for me, I just don’t prefer a surface to suck the oil out of my paint. This combined with the possibility of adhesion issues down the road, cause me not to recommend alkyd primers, despite their prevalence in the art market.

 

primer on primers part 3: oil

Pros

• tactile feel
• color
• history behind it

Cons

• waiting time

• clean up
• sizing

Not to be confused with lead white paint, oil primers differ greatly in oil content, having a much lower oil ratio and, thusly, much more pigment. This normally produces a very thick paste, much like a biscuit dough or wood filler. Oil primer makes a horrid paint, it’s not what it’s designed for and should not be used as such, although in a pinch it is compatible.

It should be mixed with turpentine, or mineral spirits if you prefer. Mix them together until it’s the consistency of heavy cream or clean motor oil. Put it only directly on metal or polyester surfaces, linen, cotton, and wood will all require PVA or rabbit skin glue sizing first. It’s also possible to use acrylic primer under your oil primer instead of glue size. Upon drying (for up to 6 months!) oil primers produce a warm white that leans towards beige or yellowish depending on the oil.

Oil primers exhibit a wonderfully smooth tactile feel and brush drag. It seems to be a perfect balance between cling and slip to allow any style of work you wish to accomplish. I wouldn’t overlook the fact that it’s also been one of the longest used of the primers.

primer on primers part 2: gesso

Pros

• wonderfully smooth
• history behind it

Cons

• only rigid surfaces

• very high absorption
• lots of preparation
• fragile

Traditionally gesso is a mixture of a hide glue and some form of calcium carbonate such as chalk, whiting, or marble dust. It takes awhile to get the mixes right, but gesso is available in dry premixed forms where only water need be added.

Sizing is suggested on wooden supports because of outgassing (as with all the other primers), metal does not require the size. It also takes a long time to do all the layers and substantial sanding. You must only use gesso on rigid surfaces as it’s prone to cracking and chipping. Care must be taken on the edges of panels done with gesso as well, as they can easily be cracked by bumps during transportation, rough handling, or poor framing.

Gesso is stark white, much like acrylic primer, it also absorbs oil like acrylic primer although to a much great extent. Too much for my tastes. It’s improved greatly by adding some type of oil or resin barrier.  This, however, removes it’s working qualities to some extent.

There is a long history behind this ground, both in oils and in tempera. It’s worth at least trying out just so you are aware of its properties. I’d suggest buying a prepared panel, as they’re easy to mess up when self-prepared. If you do make your own, the materials can be used in other aspects of oil painting. (The glue for sizing other things, the calcium carbonate for adding to acrylic primer to increase tooth, or in small amounts to lead white to alter its properties.)